There are many things that can stand in the way of having good hair days on the regular… especially if you find that you’re experiencing hair thinning. Aging, hormones, stress, and genetics are among the potential factors at play that may result in reduced hair thickness and a more visible scalp. But how ‘normal’ is hair thinning exactly—and how much thinning, shedding, and loss may be cause for concern?
Keep reading for a comprehensive guide to hair thinning, as informed by a derm and a trichologist. Plus: pro tips and tricks to revive thinning hair and boost hair growth.
What Causes Hair Thinning in Women?
According to board-certified NYC cosmetic dermatologist Michele Green, MD, who specializes in women’s hair loss, imbalanced hormones and genetics are among the key causes of hair thinning in women and men alike. Androgens, or male hormones (which are naturally present within all genders), “tend to be the biggest cause of hair thinning as they can reduce growth phases and create thinner hair strands,” she explains. Hormonal changes also disrupt the hair life cycle by extending the resting cycle, adds trichologist Kerry Yates, founder of Colour Collective. This results in hair that looks thinner and in poorer condition overall. More specifically, Dr. Green cites dihydrotestosterone (DHT) is an androgen that leads to hair follicle miniaturization and thinning of hair strands.
As Dr. Green continues, hormonal imbalances leading to or exacerbating hair thinning may also be attributed to:
Extreme or chronic stress may also trigger hair thinning. “Stress promotes high cortisol levels, which can cause the body to shut down your non-essential hair follicles in favor of supporting your other essential functions,” Yates explains. The end result: thin hair (and potentially other side effects of fight-or-flight mode, including but not limited to digestive distress, breakouts, and poor sleep).
In addition, your genes may increase the likelihood of experiencing hair thinning. “Many individuals find that family members also experience hair thinning or sensitivity to androgens,” notes Dr. Green.
Hair Thinning vs. Hair Loss
Curious about the difference between hair thinning and hair loss? The former occurs when your hair becomes less dense and voluminous, whereas the latter involves hair falling out at the root and impediments to hair growth. (FWIW, some loose strands are expected: The American Academy of Dermatology notes that it’s typical to shed 50 to 100 hairs daily.)
Hair thinning and hair loss may occur simultaneously, yet the experiences and their causes are sometimes, but not always, interchangeable. Per Dr. Green, hair loss may be caused by additional factors such as:
- Autoimmune disorders such as alopecia areata, in which the immune system attacks hair follicles leading to sudden hair loss and bald patches
- Certain medical conditions
- Surgeries
Moreover, Yates explains that malnourishment from aggressive diets can trigger hair loss. “They can cause the body to shut down support for non-essential functions like [supporting] the hair follicle,” she shares. “The follicle then goes into the resting phase, causing an aggressive fall out with no new regrowth.”
How ‘Normal’ Is Hair Thinning?
Hair thinning in women is both normal and expected, largely on account of biological aging and hormonal shifts. “Estrogen and progesterone are two [female] hormones that work to keep hair in the resting stage and prevent it from moving to the shedding stage,” Dr. Green explains. “As women age and undergo menopause, these hormone levels drop, leading to short growth phases and thinner hair.”
Not yet at this life milestone and still experiencing significant changes in the thickness of your hair? Consult a dermatologist or a trichologist, who can determine the exact cause(s) of hair thinning and prevent it from getting worse. For instance, they can decipher if your hair thinning or loss is in the ‘normal range’ or if a condition—such as alopecia areata or telogen effluvium—is present. The latter is “characterized by sudden, excessive shedding and can be triggered by physical or emotional stressors such as medical conditions like hypothyroidism, infections, surgeries, and chronic stress,” Dr. Green explains.
4 Tips to Stop Hair Thinning and Boost Hair Growth
1. Eat Your Way to Healthy Hair
The quality of your diet impacts the state of your mind, mood, sleep, skin, physical strength, and so on and so forth. Unsurprisingly, it can also impact how healthy, strong, and dense your hair is.
To promote healthy, shiny hair, Dr. Green suggests enriching your diet with:
“Antioxidants [from fruits] such as strawberries and dates can also protect the hair and scalp from UV damage, oxidative stress, and free radical damage to prevent breakage,” Dr. Green adds. “Some vitamins, such as biotin, B vitamins, and saw palmetto can help support overall hair health and hair growth.”
Tip: Courtesy of Fo-Ti, PABA, biotin, folic acid, vitamin B12, and zinc, HUM’s Hair Strong capsules promote fuller and stronger locks. Plus, they’re clinically proven to improve hair growth.
2. Give Your Hair and Scalp More TLC
There’s no shortage of simple lifestyle tweaks that can protect your hair by boosting growth and halting hair loss and thinning.
Among them, Yates strongly advises:
- Limiting hair pulling—including that from sleek buns, tight ponytails, and sometimes even regular hat-wearing—which can strain or damage the hair follicle, lead to scarring, and lead to hair loss
- Washing your hair at least every 3 to 4 days and passing on dry shampoo, which can clog follicles and distress your hair
- Passing up on extreme diets and nourishing your body with the foods and nutrients your body and hair need to thrive
- Resisting the temptation to scratch your scalp, as excessive scratching can create permanent scars that ‘kill’ the hair follicle
- Avoiding overprocessing your hair with chemical treatments (e.g., dyes, smoothing treatments, perms), spacing them out for at least every 4 to 6 weeks to reduce inflammation and let your scalp recover
“Remember to be nice to your scalp and it will produce gorgeous hair,” Yates concludes.
3. Enlist Professional Help
If your hair thinning is significant, your best bet is to visit an expert to (pun alert) get to the *root* of the issue. You might be able to halt hair thinning and loss by adopting some of the tips shared above, or perhaps your hair requires more significant interventions.
Dr. Green shares a few medications that can help stop or slow down hair thinning:
- Minoxidil (aka Rogaine): Topically, it lengthens the growth phase of the hair growth cycle and restores inactive hair follicles. Orally, which Dr. Green notes is used off-label and in low doses, it strengthens hair follicles and promotes hair growth and retention.
- Propecia (finasteride): “It is an FDA-approved oral medication that inhibits the conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a hormone associated with hair follicle miniaturization,” she explains. Though it’s yet to be FDA–approved for women, it’s often prescribed off-label to stave off women’s hair loss (limited to those who don’t plan on getting pregnant soon).
- Dutasteride: According to Dr. Green, this oral medication blocks DHT and helps increase hair density and growth.
- Spironolactone: “Spironolactone is an oral medication that slows the production of androgens, or male hormones, to promote hair retention and growth,” the derm explains. It’s also commonly prescribed to women to keep hormonal acne at bay.
- Hormone replacement therapy: Dr. Green says this option can be beneficial for women experiencing menopausal hair loss.
In addition, she cites platelet-rich plasma (PRP) treatments as a gold standard to combat hair thinning and loss. With this safe and innovative hair restoration treatment, “A sample of blood is taken from the patient and spun down to remove the PRP rich in growth factors and proteins necessary for promoting tissue regeneration and healing in hair follicles,” Dr. Green explains. “The PRP is then injected back into the patient’s scalp to thicken hair, reduce shedding, and increase hair growth.” She says an initial series of 4 monthly PRP treatments, followed by regular maintenance sessions, can help maximize the longevity and effects of PRP to achieve thicker, healthier hair.
4. Mix and Match Hair Treatments
As is the case with most health, wellness, and beauty goals, a multi-pronged approach individualized to your needs is most likely to get the job one. According to Yates, the most effective treatment options to stop hair thinning and boost hair growth will vary according to the ‘why’ behind the issue. That said, she cites topical interventions (including scalp tonics), PRP treatments, and ingestibles as one combined protocol that works for many people. “My personal preference is a topical regimen in addition to daily massages on the scalp,” she adds.
Last, But Not Least, The Takeaway on Hair Thinning and Health for Hair Growth
Last but not least, Yates advises keeping your expectations in check and being patient when addressing hair thinning. Even if you adopt these expert-vetted tips and tricks and apply them to a T, you won’t see immediate regrowth or thickening. “Honestly, it can be upwards of 4 to 6 months before you see any real changes,” she explains.
Simply remember that good things—including those coveted good hair days—are worth the wait *and* the effort necessary to achieve them.