Hashida Tokyo: Omakase with attitude

This article appears in Tokyo Weekend Vol. 4.
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For first-timers, dining at a high-end sushi restaurant in Tokyo can be a little daunting. The restaurant environment is often intimate, and there are specific etiquette and processes for dining, which can be daunting, especially if you don’t speak the local language. Luckily, there are several high-end sushi restaurants with a more relaxed atmosphere. The most prominent of these is Hashida Tokyo in Kachidoki, which was opened in 1969 by the late legendary sushi master Hashida Tokyo-sama. The restaurant reopened in 2022 after renovations and is now run by Hashida’s enigmatic son Kenjiro, who is known for his culinary creativity and take-no-prisoners attitude.

“The food here is free,” Hashida joked soon after I arrived. “Customers are just paying for Japan’s most expensive gashapon.” He then handed me a coin filled with capsule balls; each one contained a chopstick rest that Hashida made on his day off. “I also draw a lot,” he said proudly. “My sister worries about me not being able to sleep, but I don’t have time to draw because I’m so passionate about everything I do.”

Itamae is a non-conformist

Hashida is a man of many characters. Affectionately known as Hachi, he loves to joke with his customers and listen to their stories. His dinner courses are supposed to last about two hours, but sometimes he gets so engrossed in chatting with his guests that they go on longer. He is a non-conformist sushi master who does things his own way and brings his fun side to the dishes. That’s not to say he doesn’t respect traditional methods. He does. He just wants to challenge himself by pushing boundaries and embracing innovation.

Hashida’s daily routine usually starts very early. He usually heads to the market around 6:30am with no specific purchase plan. In true Marie Kondo style, he only chooses ingredients that make him happy after seeing the fish face to face and feeling them. He also takes the opinions of the vendors into consideration, so he always returns to the store with different items each time. This means that his The omakase courses change regularly.

“Some customers don’t like this,” Hashida admits. “They come a second time and want to try something they’ve had before, but then they find out it’s not on the menu. That’s the way I do things, though. You can’t please everyone all the time.”

“Making sushi comes naturally to me. I’ve been around sushi my whole life and started helping my dad in restaurants when I was about 14. I learned from a special person, but that doesn’t mean I should do it exactly the way he did it. It’s important to be creative and try different things; otherwise, every sushi restaurant will be the same.”

Knife Artist

As we chatted, Hashida prepared our first course. The dish consisted of salmon roe, Kyoto tofu, mozuku, corn broth, and Japanese ivory shells. It was beautifully presented and tasted even better than it looked. Watching him work his magic behind the counter was like watching a show. He’s an artist with his knives, but he also seems a bit disorganized. As a result, the place feels more chaotic than a typical sushi restaurant. That’s part of its charm, though—when the food arrives, everything is arranged to perfection.

Hashida’s easygoing manner belies his professionalism. A graduate of the prestigious L’Ecole Tsuji Tokyo culinary school, he has built a reputation over the years in both Japan and Singapore, where he also runs a very successful restaurant. The two restaurants attract a wide range of patrons, including many celebrities and politicians. He says one of his most memorable guests was Will Smith; Hashida’s father apparently surprised him by pretending to shoot him with an imitation gun Men in Black.

As Hashida tells us the story of both restaurants, he goes on to serve up a menu of delicious dishes. From red rockfish and monkfish liver to somen with sardines to sesame tofu and eggplant served on lotus leaves, every dish the kitchen whips up is a work of art. Other highlights include the richly flavored Hanasaki crab, which turns a bright red like a flower when cooked, and some lightly grilled bonito. And these are just the appetizers.

Sushi

The sushi section opens with some sweet kanpachi (giant yellowtail), which Hashida explains is rich in minerals and best eaten in the summer. The buri (yellowtail) that follows is soft and chewy, while the hirame (flounder) is firm and flavorful. The takabe (yellowtail) is the most striking in terms of appearance, and tastes as juicy as it looks. The tachiuo (hairtail) and uni (sea urchin) sushi require effort to get into your mouth, but it’s worth it. Finally, there’s some delicious toro (fat tuna) to round off the meal.

After our meal, Hashida gave me a tour of the restaurant. The third floor, where he serves his omakase dinners, has a very traditional and classic feel, but with some quirky art scattered around, including a limited edition skateboard decorated by popular graffiti artist and painter Esow. The second floor is like an event space with a long counter. It’s a trendy place for small gatherings of around 10 to 15 people. Our tour ended on the first floor. It has been renovated to reflect the atmosphere of the old Hashida restaurant. Lunch is served here on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, while dinner is served every day except Sundays and Mondays. If you’re lucky and Hashida starts telling his anecdotes, the set meal can last much longer than expected.

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