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Japan’s Most Mysterious Island Escape

Japan’s Most Mysterious Island Escape

Sado Island is located on the coast of Niigata Prefecture and rises from the sea. Seen from above, it’s shaped like two fish circling each other: a set of parallel mountains connected by a lush lowland with villages tucked into the bay. Its natural beauty is reason enough to visit, but its unique history also makes it a fascinating subject. Along its coastline you’ll find traces of exiled emperors, radical monks and shogunate gold diggers.

Sado Island is about 40 kilometers from the Sea of ​​Japan, close enough to the mainland for ferries to run several times a day, but far enough away to feel self-sufficient. It has been an official penal colony for more than a thousand years. Emperor Suntoku arrived after siding with the wrong side in a palace dispute. Nichiren was exiled here for his radical Buddhist teachings.

Those who were exiled here were usually guilty of political crimes and therefore tended to be nobles and cultural figures rather than violent criminals. While in exile, they brought Kyoto’s art and ideas to the Sado coast. One art form in particular has deep roots: Noh theatre. During the Edo period, there were more than 200 noh stages in Sado, built in villages, shrines and even private estates. Today there are still 32, which is the highest concentration relative to the population anywhere in the country.

In 1601, gold was discovered in the mountains: a gold rush began in Japan. A large mine was built near Aikawa in the west of the island. Its ports were booming, with merchant ships laden with goods from Osaka, Hokkaido and beyond. Gold production peaks and then declines. The merchant ship slowed down. But cultural deposits layered over centuries remain.

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Explore the mountains and sea of ​​Sado

The size of the island is deceptive. On the map, it looks compact, but the coastline stretches for about 280 kilometers. Distances here are elongated because the road follows the contours of the land. You drive around a headland and a fishing village appears. The road turns inland and suddenly you’re in a rice field surrounded by Japanese cedar and beech forests.

Sado Island is famous for its clear waters and stunning coastline. The best way to see these sights is on a “tarai-bune” – a hand-hewn round barrel-shaped fishing boat that has become one of the island’s most famous attractions. These vessels have been operating in the bay since the late 19th century and were originally designed to catch conch shells and abalone that ordinary boats could not maneuver. Today, you can take a bus from Xiaomu Port without booking in advance. Or, at the Yajima Experience and Exchange Center, you can board a mud boat with a partially transparent bottom and watch kelp sway beneath your feet and fish fly beneath your feet.

Head inland and up to admire the stunning mountain scenery. Mount Donden, formally known as Mount Tadaramine, is a plateau of three peaks approximately 900 meters high, famous for its flowers in late spring and cool open-air trails in summer. About a 40-minute drive from Ryotsu Port, there are campsites and hiking trailheads, with hiking times ranging from 1 to 6 hours. On a clear night, this offers some of the best stargazing spots on the island.

On the northern coast, Onogame is a giant turtle-shaped boulder that stands 167 meters above sea level. From late May to early June, the hillsides are covered with daylilies. For most visitors, it’s a 20-minute walk to the top, offering views of the coastline and nearby Futama City. There is no entrance fee and it is a popular stop for those driving or touring the island’s northern circuit.

Japan’s Most Mysterious Island Escape sado 002 tokiJapan’s Most Mysterious Island Escape sado 002 toki

Uncover centuries of history

The Sado Kanazan Mountain in Eroka is now open to tourists as a World Heritage Site. The factory opened in 1601 and came under direct control of the shogunate two years later, producing gold for centuries. Admission includes access to two historic tunnels, where you can see life-size mannequins recreating scenes from the Sado Gold Mine Scrolls, as well as beautifully preserved facilities.

It’s about a 30-minute drive from Toki Forest Park, which has a quiet, historical atmosphere. The crested ibis was once common in Japan, but it disappeared from the wild in 2003. A breeding program using birds donated by China has been carried out here, bringing the number of crested ibises on Sado Island to about 480. The park is open every day and features fences, viewing plazas and a small museum.

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Sado on the table

Sado’s cuisine is inseparable from its scenery. Its cuisine is rooted in the island’s topography and waters. Nowhere is this clearer than in Sado Meshiran-certified restaurants, which rightly make a commitment to using local ingredients.

In Aikawa, soba restaurant Yozaemon grinds its own flour from buckwheat grown in Sado. The noodles are cut very thickly and are fragrant when eaten, leaving an aftertaste when chewed. The interior décor changes monthly, showcasing Sado’s traditional crafts, a quiet reminder that the food here is always connected to the season and place.

Further up the coast, Shikisai Kappo Den, run by a husband-and-wife team, follows the same principles. Their sashimi is fresh and well prepared and can be ordered with small batch sake. Located on the edge of Mano Bay, the Nagahama Shoyu Dojo is both a hotel and a working kitchen. A tank behind the restaurant holds the day’s catch. The owner, a sushi chef with over 40 years of experience, pulls the fish straight from the water onto the plate.

Despite its rich history and scenery, Sado’s real appeal lies in its pace. Nothing here moves in a hurry – not the tale boats bobbing in the shallows, not the mountain roads winding through rhododendron forests, not the kitchens delivering sashimi cooked to order. Give yourself at least three days. Drive around, stop often, and eat well. When it’s time to leave, you’ll wish you could have stayed a little longer.

More information

To learn more about Sado Island, click here.

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