Visit the most holy sacred sacred places in Japan

Posted by PSEDEN

2025-05-28

On 2025-05-28

This article is published in Tokyo Weekend Volume. 2, 2025.
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About 1200 years ago, Kukai, one of the most famous Japanese monks, entered his eternal meditation at Koya on Mount Koya. The monk, known after his death as Kobo Daishi, sneaked into the death and won the prize.

Shinn believes that despite his physical death, his spirit remains on Koya Mountain, waiting for the future Buddha Miroku Nyorai and watching one of Japan’s most sacred mountains. Until today, two meals of Shojin Ryori (traditional Buddhist vegetarian delicacies) are provided to Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum every day to maintain the spirit of the monk.

In late summer 2023, my mother and grandmother visited Koya Mountain – or Koyasan in Japanese, which is how I prefer to refer to it. My grandmother walked through Shikoku pilgrimage, a route that connected 88 temples, said to have been visited by Kobo Daishi in the ninth century. Although not part of the official tour, Koyasan is considered the beginning and end of its spirit, as it is the last resting place for the respected monk. She wanted to complete the journey, and her legs were still strong enough to make a trek.

pilgrimage

Koyasan refers to a mountainous area and its surrounding peaks, as well as a complex of temple buildings that span the area. It was found in Wakayama prefecture of Kansai, which is a very important location in Japanese Buddhism. Shinon Buddhism’s birthplace and spiritual center, the mountain area had homes of more than 2,000 temples during the Edo period, of which 117 still exist.

Today, these 117 temples are still open to tourists. A cable car or bus can be brought to the top, but a sloping tilt in spirit or movement can be used to ascend to the peaks using the ancient pilgrimage trail. These include the original main trail, Choishi Michi, a 23.5 km hike that winds through the forest.

“After climbing the steep mountain road, a religious city suddenly emerges, lined with residences of temples and monasteries. The air is clear and solemn atmosphere is full of tradition,” Nobuhiro Tamura, once a temple in Koyasan, currently the chief executive of the temple of Koyasan Tour Company. “This is where you can glimpse the original landscape of Japan, and many people who are confident in Kobo Daishi still live.”

It might just be the temperature drop and misty weather, but the Koyasan atmosphere made me feel cold and confused during my journey there. Visitors enter the complex through Daimon, a 25-meter-high gate that is flanked by the Guardian statue, marking the symbolic threshold between the secular world and the sacred mountain temple town. As we passed, our guide pointed out the route leading to Fudozaka-Guchi Nyonin-Do, which once once stood in the temple complex. Women were not allowed to enter the Holy Land until 1872, and even then, they faced strict restrictions and resistance. It was not until the early 20th century that they had access to a comprehensive and equal access.

Instead, female pilgrims would hike the periphery of Koyasan and connect directly with Kobo Daishi to the surrounding shelters to experience a small part of the sacred powers of the area. The difficult and even dangerous route, known as Nyonin Michi, is now a symbol of pious, resilient female worship.

I looked at my grandmother and mother, including three generations of women, to visit the mountains we once were forbidden. I suddenly felt proud and admired. I stood up a little high, raised my head and greeted the energy around me.

Kobo Daishi’s resting place

Some of Koyasan’s main highlights include Danjo Garan in the Central Temple Complex; ieyasu and his son Hidetada and of course Okunoin, the site of Kobo Daishi’s tomb and the largest cemetery in Japan. The cemetery is home to over 200,000 tombstones, including rocket-shaped tombstones modeled with Apollo 11 and Yakult-shaped tombstones.

To enter the site of Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum, visitors must cross the Gobyobashi Bridge, no food and photography are allowed, and conversations must be kept to a minimum. The tour guide asked us to bow to Kobo Daishi and meditate on the bridge, planks at a time. My stare made zeroes on the board, as if a mistake would find that I was careless or disrespectful.

On the other side of the bridge is waiting for Torodo Hall, a shelter illuminated by 20,000 lanterns. Guests are not allowed to enter the mausoleum itself, but can be respected from the monk’s eternal meditation place. As I crossed the bridge, a trembling man penetrated me. I instinctively hold my breath and feel the omnipotence around me, understand me, protect me. I looked at my mom, she nodded quickly, her eyes wide open. “Airu N,” she said. He’s here.

Temple residence and chaos

For those who wish to further deepen their spiritual experience, Koyasan also offers guests the opportunity to live in a temple residence called Shukubo. “There are about 50 Shukubos, many of which can be booked easily online,” Tamula noted. For tourists between March and November, he recommends booking in advance. “On the other hand, if you prefer a quiet experience, winter is a quiet, clear air, just be sure to be prepared for the cold.”

Living in a temple gives people a whole new level of immersion in Koyasan culture. Shukubo’s experience provides a spiritual understanding through life experiences and practical religious practices, allowing guests to eat, pray and sleep like monks in temples.

Shukubo’s experience offers the opportunity to slow down and find profound meaning in quiet everyday moments: strolling through the temple’s impeccable polished wooden corridors, trying out carefully prepared Shojin Ryori meals, participation rituals (the daily Sutra Chandra Chanting) and Goma (Goma) and GOMA (Fire Ritual Prayer), and meticulously maintained gardens. Staying in Shukubo also allows guests to explore Koyasan in the evening. Danjo Garan’s Red Temple building has a completely different atmosphere when illuminated at night.

Thank you for the entire 24-hour cycle in Koyasan, watching the sunshine at night and welcoming the sunrise the next day, for what we took for granted, and for what we were guided by the spirit of Kobo Daishi.