Tokyo Neighborhood Guide: Tsukishima and Tsukuda

There was once a quiet Chuo Ward district Tsukishima at the mouth of Sumida River. It is a small man-made island, created in the late 1800s, and it was dug from Tokyo Bay during the construction of the transport channel. The neighboring Tsukuda also experienced many changes: Before Tsukishima developed, it was its own small island, living among fishermen.

With the development and development of these places, many changes have taken place. Now that Tokyo’s high-rise apartments are now synonymous with the skyline, but on the ground, most of its early days, the charm of the old town is still weaving the trails, just waiting for you to find it.

Moon Island Monja

Tsukishima is converted to “Moon Island”, which is usually related to Monjayaki. Perhaps most described as Okonomiyaki’s cousin Monjayaki (also known as Monja), is like a large salted pancake. Its base is usually made of wheat flour, water and cabbage, and other vegetables, meat and seafood are often found on the top. What distinguishes Monjayaki from Okonomiyaki is its consistency. With the addition of liquid reserves, the Monja mixture is more prolific than the Okonomiyaki mixture, which means it is not like a pancake, but keeps it delicious on the top and has a nice crispy bottom.

But, what does this have to do with Tsukishima? The entire length of the Nishinaka-dori shopping street is more affectionately called Monja Street. Here you will find the most densely populated Monjayamu restaurants around Tokyo. And more than just a few – each second or third store is filled with do-it-yourself grill tables synonymous with cooking and eating Monja, creating a level of competition that has allowed many restaurants to offer a unique spin on classic Tokyo dishes.

By the river

After filling Monha, take a walk along the neighboring Sumida River along the tsukuda and explore this part of the city. Drive north along the seafront and you will be greeted with many views along the river that provide an impressive panoramic view of the surrounding skyline. You may notice that the white arches of Chuo-Ohashi Bridge perfectly form the iconic Tokyo Skytree rising from the distance when viewed from the right location along the Sumida River.

While adventures in Tsukuda, you may encounter a small white tower with a distinct historical feeling. This is Ishikawa Island Lighthouse, a faithful beacon built in 1866 that once stood in the same location and led merchant ships to nearby markets. Conveniently, it is now located above the public restroom.

A few meters away, you will find a huge red Torii gate, marking the entrance to Sumiyoshi Jinja in Tsukuda. Originally founded in 1646, the shrine was dedicated to the safe god of sea travel, attracting fishermen and their families whose lives depend on the ocean. Today, locals still visit it regularly as a place for prayer.

Returning to Tsukishima from Sumiyoshi Jinja, you will encounter the scarlet Tsukuda Kobashi Bridge, the heart of the area, creating an interesting contrast with the distant high-rise skyline. But perhaps the most interesting part of hiding in this area of ​​town is Tsukuda tendai jizo-son: a hidden shrine dedicated to the Buddhist god Jizo who protects children. Apart from its unusually small size, secret location in an extremely narrow alley, the most interesting thing about the shrine is a huge tree (reported to have been 350 years old) – growing directly on the ceiling.

An accessible island

Although Tsukishima and Tsukuda are surrounded by water, the area they are located is easy to access. From Tokyo Station, you can reach Tsukishima in just 10 minutes: walk to Yurakucho Station, and then take the Yurakucho Line three stops to Tsukishima Station. From there, exploring the area on foot is easy and it is recommended to make sure you don’t miss any of the Edo era scenery. Following these extra steps is also the perfect excuse for Monja’s second portion if you want.

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