Komachi Kurenai: Japan’s Timeless Cosmetics Secret

Japan is the world’s cosmetics giant. In 2023, its cosmetics and personal care products market ranked third, second only to the United States and China. In the same year, Japan’s largest beauty company Shiseido 973 billion yen On sale. But Japan’s interest in beauty is not limited to recent years. The country has a long history of using cosmetics.

During the Edo period (1603-1867), makeup reflected a woman’s social status, class, and age. The unique style limits makeup to three colors: red, white and black. various Ukiyo-e Woodblock prints of that era, such as “Dance Teacher” (signed “Kochorou Kunisada”) in Utagawa Kunisada’s “Contemporary Beauty Contest” series, show us the daily life and makeup culture of Japanese women in the past. .

Geisha also used these traditional colors: one called Oi Red lines painted on their faces, eyes and lips help them stand out by candlelight while serving customers.

Dating back even further, makeup customs during the Heian period (794-1185) also expressed social status, albeit for both men and women. Nobles would paint their faces to show their nobility to the emperor. In fact, these practices are the origins of geisha makeup.

Komachi Kurenai A form of traditional Japanese cosmetics, rouge is made from the red pigment of safflower and is called rouge in Japanese. plant. While most people outside of Japan associate the word “Benika” with the popular teppanyaki chain In restaurants, the flowers to which the word refers were a valuable commodity during the Edo period as they were raw materials for dyes and cosmetics. The flowers are thought to be native to the Middle East and Egypt, arriving in Japan around the mid-third century after being brought to China along the Silk Road.

To turn the flowers into usable cosmetics, the red pigment is extracted and processed into a glaze product. This rouge can be applied to lips, cheeks, and eyes, becoming a must-have for women’s beauty routines and remains popular among geisha and kabuki actors. actor. Beni culture flourished until around the 19th century, when Western-style lipstick and blush became the new craze. Although Beni no longer features in most women’s makeup bags, Beni is still sold and used today.

For a behind-the-scenes look at the history of one of Japan’s oldest cosmetic secrets and where you can try it for yourself, read on.

What is Beni?

Komachi red is made entirely from natural raw materials. According to Isehan Honten, the last store in Japan to use traditional techniques to produce red, approximately 1,000 safflower flowers are needed to make a Komachi red container. This is because less than 1% of the entire safflower petals contain precious red pigment, making the extraction of safflower an extremely time-consuming and technically demanding task.

Historically, the agricultural process included plowing and sowing seeds in March. After the flowers bloom and are processed, farmers make red cake — Compact patties made from dried and fermented flower petals — ready for transport. The pigment will eventually arrive in Kyoto, one of the largest producers of Komachi red, around October.

During the processing stage, the pigment is refined through a chemical reaction involving a combination of lye, rice vinegar, and plum vinegar. Pour the lye over the red cake and squeeze the petals with a red cake press to extract the deep red liquid. Pour the solution into a basin and soak the cannabis bundles. The bundles are then dipped again in lye, wrapped in cloth and pressed through machines again. Repeat these steps several times to improve the purity of the pigment. Finally, the plum vinegar is added to the concentrated beni solution, which is then passed through a cloth for a final filter.

Today, Komachi red is usually stored in containers called “small dome ceramic containers.” chalk owner or mini pallet problem. When dry, some of Komachi’s red pigments turn into a luxurious metallic green-gold. This transformation is an indicator of its quality, as only the best batches produce this mysterious reaction. Beni is activated like watercolor paint – after you wet it with a brush, it magically turns red again.

Beni’s history

Since ancient times, the Japanese have associated the color red with red. sun, fire, blood — and life itself. Beni’s bright red pigment was believed to protect people physically and mentally by stimulating blood circulation and acting as a talisman to ward off evil spirits. During a newborn’s first visit to a shrine, the baby is painted with red ink to protect them from evil spirits. this Ayako This custom is still retained in some areas of Kansai and Northeast China. period Qiwu Mountain When children are celebrating their 3rd, 5th and 7th birthdays, it is common to prepare amulet bags and red chocolate as gifts.

As mentioned above, makeup during the Edo period was used to designate women’s status by making their social attributes visible and identifiable. Brides will darken their teeth using a practice known as “teeth blackening.” Koguro Before getting married, new mothers would shave their eyebrows after giving birth. These changes in a woman’s appearance are an indicator of her transformation within the social hierarchy. Upper-class women from samurai families would shave their natural eyebrows and add new, thinner eyebrows. Unmarried women paint their lower lips green Sasa Baihong.

for geishabeni is used to draw the lines of eyes and lips. first year nation (Geisha apprentices) were usually only allowed to apply beni on the lower lip. Higher-level maiko and mature geisha will apply lipstick on their lips, and the lips will be smaller than they actually are, so that they look younger, cuter, and well-proportioned.

As Japan opened its borders during the Meiji period (1868-1912), international exchange and widespread Westernization gave rise to a new era of makeup. Japan’s cosmetics industry began to incorporate Western trends and products. Meanwhile, beauty standards have begun to stray away from traditional images after visiting foreigners steadfastly refused to brush their teeth, shave their eyebrows and other customs, calling them “barbaric”. Rutherford Alcock was the first British diplomat to live in Japan describes the practice Hence: “While they coat their teeth with black varnish and pluck the last hair from their eyebrows, the housewives of Japan will surely claim to be unparalleled among all sexes in artificial ugliness.” In 1870, the Japanese government banned tooth blackening practice and gradually disappeared.

After such intense criticism, women began to focus on how to maximize their natural beauty. Royal white was replaced by skin care products and powder, and Komachi red was replaced by blush and lipstick. It was also during this period that women began to enjoy makeup, no longer seeing it as a social symbol, but simply as fashion and self-expression. By the end of the Taisho era (1912-1926) and the Showa era (1926-1989), “modern girls” began to imitate European and American trend and the actresses they admired on screen. However, one tenet that survives in ancient traditions is that makeup is part of self-grooming and an important part of maintaining appearance for social interactions.

Experience Komachi Red today

Today, Western cosmetics have basically taken over the Japanese cosmetics market, but you can still experience traditional products such as Komachi Red.

Located in the Aoyama neighborhood of Tokyo, the Isehan Honten Red Museum is free to visit and provides guests with a rare glimpse into the craftsmanship and history of red and Japanese cosmetics. It even has a practice area where you can try using Komachi Red yourself. And, since the museum is equipped with tablets that can translate each exhibit, even people who don’t speak Japanese can easily enjoy the fun. As the only remaining pink shop from the Edo period, Isehan Honten is truly committed to preserving Japan’s traditional and beautiful craftsmanship and culture.

“Recently, influenced by TikTok and YouTube, many young people come here to try to buy Beni.” Museum staff said. “I’m really happy that the younger generation is starting to understand Japan’s traditional red beans.”

If you visit, be sure to take the time to admire the beautiful ceramic berimachiko of Isehan Honten, which you can see at museum shop. One staff member explained that Beni is not just for professionals; It is also used by ordinary people. Price range from ¥10,000 all the way to 80,000 yen, The Museum Shop’s Benimachi offers luxurious gifts for weddings and birthdays, not to mention souvenirs.

In addition to its exquisite appearance and historical depth, Komachi Red has other advantages: Because it’s stain-based rather than cream-based like modern lipsticks, it doesn’t smear or transfer easily. “Benny won’t leave any marks on teacups, bowls, glasses or mugs,” a staff member explained. “That way you can enjoy your meal in style.”

For those on a tight budget but still want to get involved in red culture, Shiseido has launched a very affordable Komachi Red, priced at just 550 yen. You have to sacrifice real and natural safflower pigment for synthetic color, but the lipstick still offers a fun experience.

Address of Isehan Mainten Kurenai Art Museum

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