An encounter between nature and spirituality in Wakayama

The pilgrims were dressed in white and had been walking for several days. During their long and arduous journey, one of them died in the river, and the rest lived on in her memory. They kept going, the last leg of the journey well within their grasp. Pilgrims hear Nachi Falls before they see it, cascading from dizzying heights. The end is in sight.

it sounds like game of Thrones scene, but the Kumano Kodo is very real, and it probably happened hundreds of years ago. The Kumano Kodo are an ancient network of pilgrim routes that crisscross the Kii Peninsula and have been used by people to seek salvation, healing and enlightenment in the region’s pristine forests for more than a thousand years.

These venerable routes have strong links to ancient Shinto and Buddhist beliefs that view the area as having deep and intrinsic sacredness – the ancient abode of the gods – and pilgrims traditionally take in the Kumano Sanzan (三山) ) ending in one or more of Kumano Sanzan are the three major shrines of Kumano Sanzan. Kumano area. One of these three is Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine, which stands beside the majestic Nachi Falls. The Kumano Kodo is divided into seven routes, the main route of which passes through Nachi Falls; these trails are still walkable today, and six of them have been listed as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.

water spirit

The part of this sacred path that includes waterfalls is located in Yoshino-Kumano National Park in Wakayama. It’s densely forested and green, making it an excellent place for hiking, and while the journey is undoubtedly difficult, the rewards far outweigh the risks.

Nachi Falls is a 133-meter-tall waterfall that cascades from a pool below. Despite its violent roar, the waterfall exudes majesty and calm, its spray casting a shimmering light in the air. Pay 300 yen to climb to the best viewing platform, where you can buy amulets, or climb up the trail at the back for a closer look, James Bond style.

Perhaps not surprisingly, given its overwhelming wonder, Nachi Falls has been an object of worship since ancient times and forms part of one of the most magnificent shrine complexes in the country. Adjacent to it are the famous Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine, dedicated to the god of waterfalls, and Aogandaji Temple, one of the oldest and most beautiful temples in Japan.

complex complex

The area around Nachi Falls is not only famous for its beauty and spiritual significance; It is also one of the few places in Japan where Buddhist temples and shrines coexist. Before the Meiji Era, Shinto and Buddhism were closely intertwined into a syncretic religion known as “Kamibutsu”. However, in 1868, the government issued a decree requiring the two religions to separate. As a result, many Buddhist elements were removed from shrines across the country, and temples that once lived peacefully with their shrine neighbors were repurposed, closed, or outright destroyed. Somehow, the complex of buildings in Nachi was spared.

This is very lucky for both establishments – they both have stunning views of the surrounding area and are close to some of the most majestic waterfalls in the land.

Buddhism and Shinto coexist

Qingandu Temple is famous for its fascinating three-story pagoda, which is the subject of many photos. Overlooking the waterfall just meters away, the pagoda cuts a striking silhouette in the turbulent white water, its bright red silhouette twinkling across the vast landscape.

Seiganto-ji means “temple across the Côte d’Azur” and its blue-gray roof complements the waterfall behind, creating an unforgettable harmony of man-made beauty and stunning natural scenery. The temple itself is actually the oldest building in the area and houses many important cultural properties.

Just past the pagoda is Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine. The shrine and its grounds are ruled by Yatakarasu, a mysterious three-legged crow from Shinto mythology. Its final resting form is a stone in the temple’s private quarters.

There is also an 850-year-old camphor tree in the shrine, 27 meters high and 8.5 meters wide, which has profound spiritual significance. A tunnel runs through its ancient trunk, meaning visitors can climb into the tree’s womb, delve into its depths, and come back out the other side. It’s an experience akin to the (re)birth of a sacred tree—feeling what it’s like to be inside the tree, connected to the natural world, and then emerging again.

Feel the mystical splash of Nachi Falls to soothe your mind and body, then head to the shrines and temples above to marvel at the falls from different vantage points. Although centuries separate us from the pilgrims who once walked these roads, we can understand why they considered Nachi a fitting end to their toil.

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