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Inside the wine cellar of Grand Hyatt Tokyo
In the summer of 2024, Steven Hagan takes over as sommelier at the Grand Hyatt Tokyo, a daunting task as the hotel operates 10 world-class dining venues. Hagen, a certified wine and sake sommelier with over a decade of experience, set out to create a special wine list, leveraging his connections with some of the world’s most prestigious vineyards and wineries.
He also floated the idea of opening the cellar to guests, a special tasting experience he calls “walking through the cellar door.” Anyone staying at the hotel or dining in the sixth-floor restaurant can participate; Hagen has curated a selection of wines for you to taste, with themes that change each month.
Hagen is passionate and precise, but also affable and fearless. With his expertise and deep knowledge base, he can satisfy the needs of the most experienced wine connoisseurs, but his goal is to make the world of wine accessible to everyone. “There was a time when I didn’t know anything about wine,” he says. “I want to be able to get everyone involved so they can start their wine journey – even from scratch, like I did.”
Bollinger’s Special:
~15,000 yen | Champagne
Supplied by The Oak Door, the iconic steakhouse at Grand Hyatt Tokyo
nation: France
area: Champagne (Aÿ and Montagne de Reims)
Why it’s special: Bollinger is one of the most famous houses in Champagne. The brand is synonymous with craftsmanship and timeless style. The creamy texture and festive bubbles of this champagne make it the ultimate toast: luxurious and joyful, perfect for sharing.
Flavor characteristics: Toasted brioche, baked apple, toasted almonds and honeyed citrus with a long, smooth finish.
pair: Bolinger is perfect with buttery pastries, crispy roasted turkey or caviar on crepes. Its rich taste and fine bubbles break up the savory texture while enhancing the indulgent, festive flavor.
Pliny-Montrachet 2023, Louis Latour:
~27,000 yen|Chardonnay
The French Kitchen, the all-day dining restaurant at Grand Hyatt Tokyo, serves classic bistro dishes
nation: France
area: Burgundy (Pliny-Montrachet in Côte de Beaune)
Why it’s special: Puligny-Montrachet is the spiritual home of the world’s most exquisite Chardonnays, and Louis Latour incorporates more than 200 years of Burgundian winemaking skills into each of his wines. The 2023 vintage displays youthful energy and crystal clear purity, a balance of freshness and richness that brings warmth without heaviness.
Flavor characteristics: White flowers, green apple, lemon zest and hazelnut with mineral notes.
pair: The wine’s precision and minerality complement the richness of the palate while keeping your taste buds fresh, making it an ideal accompaniment to holiday meals like butter-poached lobster, herb-roasted chicken or chicken gratin.
Artemis, Stags Leap:
~30,000 yen | Cabernet Sauvignon
Supplied by The Oak Door, the iconic steakhouse at Grand Hyatt Tokyo
nation: USA
area: Napa Valley, California (Stag’s Leap District)
Why it’s special: Artemis pays homage to the Greek goddess of the hunt: a fitting name for a wine that embodies the elegance, power and precision of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Produced by the same winery that won the 1976 Judgment of Paris, a legendary blind tasting that saw California triumph over France, Artemis embodies the tradition that put California wines on the world stage. It blends fruit from the Stags Leap region and select Napa Valley vineyards to achieve the ideal balance between power and elegance.
Flavor characteristics: Flavors of blackberry, cassis, cocoa and graphite, with smooth tannins and a long, structured finish.
pair: This Cabernet Sauvignon’s dark fruit, refined tannins and savory spice pair perfectly with rich meat and roasted flavors. Serve with prime rib, grilled steak or rosemary lamb.
2018 Sauvignon Blanc, Eisele Vineyard:
~40,000 yen | Sauvignon Blanc
Supplied by The Oak Door, the iconic steakhouse at Grand Hyatt Tokyo
nation: USA
area: Napa Valley (Calistoga), California
Why it’s special: Sourced from one of Napa’s most historic and biodynamic vineyards, this Sauvignon Blanc blends Old World sophistication with New World sophistication. Barrel fermented and aged on lees, it has a texture and depth rarely seen in this variety. Its brightness and elegance pair perfectly with festive appetizers, bringing a sense of freshness to the table between rich dishes.
Flavor characteristics: Lemon curd, white peach and grapefruit zest with creamy minerality and subtle vanilla spice.
pair: This Sauvignon Blanc has lively acidity and a creamy texture that adds flavor to seafood and light dishes. It’s ideal for a decadent holiday meal with fresh oysters, grilled shrimp, or goat cheese salad.
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione “Vigneto Bellavista” 2015, Castello di Ama:
~75,000 yen | Sangiovese
Available at Maduro Bar and Jazz Lounge at Grand Hyatt Tokyo
nation: Italy
area: Tuscany (Gaiole in Chianti Classico)
Why it’s special: Made only in special vintages from a single historic vineyard, Bellavista represents the pinnacle of Sangiovese expression. This is a wine that is elegant, traditional and deeply connected to the Tuscan terroir.
Flavor characteristics: Flavors of red cherry, dried rose, cedar and earthy spices, with a long and delicious finish.
pair: This Chianti Classico has the perfect balance of acidity and depth. It brings warmth and rustic charm to any meal, especially hearty Italian fare, and is perfect with truffle pasta, roast pork, or tomato stew.
Unico 2009, Vega Sicily:
~220,000 yen | Tempranillo
Available at Maduro Bar and Jazz Lounge at Grand Hyatt Tokyo
nation: Spain
area: riviera duero
Why it’s special: Unico in Vega Sicilia is the crown jewel of Spain. Aged for nearly a decade before release, it blends immense power with velvety finesse. The 2009 vintage is both expressive and timeless, a testament to true craftsmanship and patience. This is the ultimate statement wine: luxurious, contemplative, and worth sharing.
Flavor characteristics: Flavors of black plum, fig, balsamic, cedar and tobacco, with silky tannins and persistence.
pair: From roast lamb and dry-aged beef to dark chocolate desserts, this wine’s complexity and savory depth will bring out the best in rich, slow-cooked festive dishes.
